X AUTOHAUXUniversal Car Remote Central Kit Door Lock Keyless Entry System - DC 12V Only

It was easy to install, and it works great. It has a very long range (>50 feet), too.

Ok, so I replace an old remote door locking kit in my 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis. This is not the best way of hooking it up, but it works for what I wanted the kit to do. The kit is installed in the driver side door panel under the window/door lock panel. I hooked up the BLACK ground wire to the door panel into the metal door. I then found the constant hot wire to the door locks and combined that wire with the WHITE and WHITE/BLACK STRIPE wire. I then put the YELLOW wire to the wire under the lock/unlock switch that locked the door. Next, I put the YELLOW/BLACK STRIPE wire to the unlock signal wire in the switch. That was it! I did not use the other wires and just capped then off. The only other one I might use is the forked brown wire that sends 1 or 2 jolts of 12 volt to lights, horn, ect. I am just happy to get the kit to work! Great signal strength over 150 feet and nice feeling remotes.

I wanted to like this. I have a slightly older car that has power locks and IR keyless entry already installed. I wanted something that I could map to the existing wiring harness. Easy peasy? Nope. Hours lost. Hours wasted. This has THE MOST indecipherable bullshit diagram ever passed off as "instructions" -- and nobody has used it so there's no online help to be found. There's no real company, as the box doesn't even use the name "autohaux" -- that's some kind of repackaging and reselling at work. I isolated the wires. I literally can hotwire them in my car to tap the "open" to power, the locks open. Tap "close" to the power, the locks close. I only need 4 wires. There's no way to wire this into this device.The device has 4 different ways to wire it up which makes no sense. I'm not an idiot. I can and have done a lot with electronics. I've installed several stereo systems, speakers, all without easy to use harnesses. I can figure out the Jeep color wires and what they need to do, but it's impossible to match that to which wires this device needs. Mapped the power and ground and what should have been the right wires, and it just clicked. The box clicked and did nothing. It clicked twice and did nothing to unlock. I reviewed the wording and decided that possibly the bad wording on the tiny diagrams means I should have been using graph B instead of A... So I tried that. Aaaand it blew a fuse in my dash.Four hours lost, wasted, and turns out I have no spare fuses, so I can't lock my car, adjust my mirrors, or have radio on my daily driver until the fuses I ordered on amazon show up.Avoid this terrible product. You wire it right, it does nothing. You wire it right (B) and it'll fry your car.Sad thing is I liked the design of these fobs. I want a simple, thin, 2-button fob, and this had what I wanted. I really tried to make it work.EDIT: The score stays at the minimum, and this doesn't change WHY I rated it so low, but for those trying to fight this:I did manage to get this working. After 2 more fuses blown. It has 3 color wires, each with that color and then that-color-with-a-black-stripe. Very common in car wiring harnesses to find a positive orange, and a negative or grounded partner of that same circuit as orange "with some kind of stripe" and when you touch both together, you have connected the circuit. So, you would think, hypothetically, when you have a white, and a black-and-white, they would be a pair, right? You would think that having a yellow, and a yellow-and-black would be a pair, right? NO! WRONG!There are 3 signals/inputs. Orange, white, and yellow. There are then three repeats of each of these with a black stripe, so or/bl, wh/bl, yl/bl. In this one we focus on white. White does NOT connect to wh/bl to connect the circuit. White is a closing signal, and white black is the OPENING signal. Yellow is the ground! So full white grounds to full yellow. Then, wh/bl grounds to yl/bl. That's the UNLOCK circuit. This defies most conventional circuit design and conventions. This is why this is so hard to decipher.The device has an internal switch that will momentarily connect the solid white to the solid yellow, and the wh/bl to the yl/bl when you push the other inputs. That's what it's doing under the hood.My Cherokee XJ has an older circuit whereby if I put +12 into the wire for the lock, it will lock. If I move that +12v to the unlock, it will unlock. Pretty straight-forward. Your car might work by touching +12 to something, OR (and do your research) it might be designed to touch a ground to a live wire instead of a positive. It's a minor distinction, just make sure you got the right wires spliced to this unit's harness.I put it to you all trying to wire this up: You need a +12 and a GND to run the module. It will piggy back off your battery so you can unlock when the car is off. Then you need to find your car's wiring harness wires that will trigger lock and unlock. These are the red and black wires.NEXT (1995 XJ): My yellow AND my yellow/black got 3-way spliced into the ground. I used crimp connectors with heatshrink around them.LASTLY (1995 XJ): White on this unit's harness spliced to "lock" wire on jeep. White/black spliced to "unlock" wire on jeep.I couldn't find the lights on my jeep's RKE harness so I didn't wire them in, but the last option would be to connect thost at the end so your lights blink as desired.I hope this helps some other poor sould with a Jeep trying to wire one of these clone boxes in.

Fantastic for the money. Installed on my 86 monte so I didn't have to use the key Everytime I went in a store. I will replace it for remote start setup when I do the built engine and vintage air but as my daily it's a pain to have to use the key when you just need to run in a store or something real quick so I wanted something that would simply just lock and unlock doors. 5 star for cheap and works fantastic -5 stars for terrible instructions you really klneed to understand electrical pretty well as it's designed to work with many different lock setups. Positive trigger setups like mine negative trigger setups and more. It's vital to wire it correctly for your system or it could damage the system especially on newer junk with overly complex locking systems. Long story short for 17 bucks I have keyless entry and it was quick to install when I finally figured out what schematic to use. It will unlock and unlock my car from my living room through the house 150ft across the yard through my 30x50 metal insulated building while it's closed up. I'd call that a definite win for 17 bucks

It works and it works from far enough away. Is the wiring complicated? Yes, but it’s doable. The wiring diagram pictures are correct, but knowing what your wires do is crucial for installing it correctly. For my vehicle, I followed instructions from another person’s review part way and tested the “fire wire” to all the door lock wires until I found the one that did what I wanted. Then the rest was easy. If you have patience and understanding of the 12v and continuity function on a multimeter, I have no doubt you can get this working too.

Seems like a good unit but trying to install on 1998 Econoline superduty. Winnebago mini Winnie.. cannot get it to work... If anyone or seller has any fees back to wire this would be great

Works very well if all you want is unlock and lock. Very simple install if you need a + or - trigger the yellow and yellow black are before the relay and the white and white black are after the relay. My application was - triggered so both yellows to ground . The whites to the door module. I didn't hook up the other nonsense like windows and horn